Step-By-Step Instructions Of Painting

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Amateur house painters didn't have as much help as today. Numerous new paints and equipment put on the market in the last several years make it possible for the weekend handyman to color his own house nearly as easily as a professional. From one-coat paints to disposable blowtorches, all things have been designed to result in the job go faster, look better and value less.
With the new outside rollers, it is possible to paint an average-size house over a couple of days. Add extra time handle and you can roll a terrace without stooping down, reach a roof without leaving the ground.
Painting Hard Spots
Specialized aids with built-in know, how tackle the hard spots for you.
Better yet, you don't have to spend hours getting ready and hours cleaning afterward. Premixed paints, electric-drill attachments and self-dispensing calking guns make short work of preparation. Clearing up is a soap-and-water job for the rubber paints, or possibly a quick dip in special cleaners for your oils. Disposable dropcloths and paper paint pails are used once and thrown away.
In this section are a couple of tips on techniques and tools which render it easier to paint your home than ever before - not how a "pro" does, perhaps, however with much the same results.
The word paint is used to add paints, varnishes, enamels, shellacs, lacquers, and stains.
• Paints are comprised of mineral pigments, organic vehicles, plus a variety of thinners all combined.
• Varnishes are resins dissolved in organic thinners.
• Enamels are pigmented varnishes.
• Shellac is lac gum dissolved in alcohol.
• Lacquers could possibly be both pigmented or clear - the liquid portion is frequently treated nitrocellulose dissolve in thinners.
• Stains might be pigmented oil or a penetrating type.

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Several materials, such as paints, varnishes, and lacquers, are formulated for specific purposes:
• Outside house paints and exterior varnishes are intended to give good service when subjected to weathering
• Interior wall paints are formulated to offer excellent coverage and good wash-ability.
• Floor enamels are created to withstand abrasion.
• Lacquers are formulated for rapid drying.
• Additionally, there are formulas which provide extra self-cleaning, fume- resisting, waterproofing, hardening, flexibility, mildew-resisting, resistance to fading, and breathing qualities.
Interior paints are used to obtain pleasing decorative effects, improve sanitary conditions, and insure better lighting. These paints could possibly be divided into four types: wall primers; one-coat flats; flat, semigloss, and gloss; and water paints.
Wall primers or primer-sealers are meant to be applied directly to bare plaster, wallboard, and other porous surfaces to provide a uniform, sealed surface for subsequent coats of paint. A normal wall primer may be made from varnish or bodied-oil vehicle and hiding pigments. It can be intended to penetrate only slightly into porous surfaces.
The primers might be best applied with a wide wall brush.
One-coat flat paints are organic-solvent-thinned paints meant to accomplish priming, sealing, and take care of coating in one operation. They are usually sold in thin paste form to ensure additional inexpensive thinner could possibly be added and mixed before application to improve the volume of paint by one-fourth or more.
Flat, semigloss, and gloss interior paints and enamels vary in degree of gloss, hiding power, along with other properties. Paints giving the top hiding power are typically paints of lowest gloss, even though some modern high-gloss enamels also have good hiding power.
Water-thinned interior paints are calcimine, casein, resin-emulsion, and gloss water paints. Calcimine consists of powdered whiting and clay blended with an animal-glue binder plus a preservative. It cannot be recoated, but sometimes be easily washed off before redecorating.
You shouldn't have to remove casein before recoating but, if de-sired, it is usually softened by washing with hot solutions of trisodium phosphate. Resin-emulsion paints, marketed in paste form, can be thinned with water and, when properly made and applied, adhere well to plaster and offer a good decorative medium. They desire not be removed before redecorating, provided the film is in sound condition. This is especially true of gloss water paints.
New Paints Offer you Pro's Skill
Painting the house will be easier than ever - if you achieve the right paint. Yet it's going to be harder than in the past to pick it.
In the past, paint was paint. One kind looked, smelled, was applied and eventually dried much like another. Everything is different now. Besides oil paints, you can buy a new set of paints. It'll pay out the comission to know about them.
• There are water paints you may use outside. (You clean your brushes beneath the faucet and use the backyard hose to get spatters from the shrubbery.)
• There are finishes so tough they withstand even attacks through the neighbors' children.
• There are paints that dry so quickly you start the second coat whenever you finish putting on the first.
• There are colors in glittering confusion.
No single product can do every one of these things. There are several types, all available under a variety of trade names. The trade names are, that will put it kindly, confusing. For example, two brands from the new paints use "rubber" of their trade names, yet neither can be a rubber-latex paint and each is actually an entirely different sort of paint from the other. To find the right paint you need to read the fine print about the label and find out what is actually inside the can.
Vinyl can be a cousin to the tough plastic utilized for upholstery and roof tiles, but it comes thinned with water ready for you to brush, roll or spray on. The label about the can may say vinyl, vinyl emulsion, polyvinyl acetate or PVA.
You should use vinyl on just about any exterior except previously painted wood. It works fine on wood shingles and shakes, asbestos shingles, brick, stucco, concrete and masonry blocks. One manufacturer says you can even put it on wood clapboard if the clapboard is new and unprimed.
The key advantage of vinyl is the thinner - water. You will get all the advantages of easy cleanup that have made interior water paints popular.
Suppose it rains while you're working? Vinyl paint dries fast - as fast as 10 to A half-hour - and will withstand a baby shower after that time. It takes another 12 hours to "cure," at the same time forming an exceptionally tough, long-lasting film that holds up well against weather, sun, salt air and factory smoke.
One precaution: You can't paint with it in winter. The chemical reaction that transforms the lake solution into a durable finish will not take place if the climate is below 50°. (Conventional oil paints don't stick well in cold temperatures, either.)
Some manufacturers recommend their vinyl paints for interior and also exterior use; others say no, not so good. You'll find vinyls made specifically for interiors.
Definitely good inside the house is a new vinyl primer-sealer to be utilized as a base coat under any paint. It dries within 30 minutes.
You can put it around an area and probably follow immediately with all the finish coat. It can be applied with brush or roller.
Acrylic is the second new term for magic in paints. This can be a plastic-in-water. Solid acrylic you realize as the beautiful, glasslike Plexiglas and Lucite.
Indoors is where acrylic shines. It dries quicker than other types, and it keeps its color better, without yellowing. One disadvantage: It costs more.
Some acrylics will also be recommended for exteriors (over the same kinds of materials as vinyl paints). Here it has a big advantage - you won't need to pick your painting weather so carefully. It may be applied on humid days along with cold seasons, provided that the temperature is a couple of degrees above freezing.
Alkyd can be an old interior paint made newly popular by a change in solvent - a super-refined petroleum chemical which includes almost no odor. It isn't a water paint. You thin it and clean brushes with mineral spirits or turpentine, or, if you need to retain the odorless feature, together with the new odorless solvent. (Ask the paint-store man for just that, odorless solvent).
Alkyd has solid advantages overriding the slight cleanup in-convenience. It really is exceptionally tough and incredibly resistant to scrubbing. It stands up well in the problem areas - trim, bathroom, kitchen. And it is easy to apply, creating a smooth, even finish free of streaks and brush marks.
The alkyds have little odor, but don't forget the solvent is a petroleum product and its particular vapor is there even if you can't smell it. Commemorate you sick and it burns very easily, much like the vapor of older paint solvents. So play safe: Keep windows open and flames away.
The old reliable are not to be overlooked either. Conventional oil paints can now be had in deodorized version, constructed with the same odorless solvent employed in the alkyds. And oil paint has much in the favor. It is sold everywhere; its virtues and faults are very established through centuries of use; it makes a tough film on nearly every surface; it offers the greatest color range; and it is often cheaper.
Water-thinned rubber-latex paint is an old reliable, though it is only about 10 years old. It is the reason for a big percentage of all paint sold and is also still the most widely accessible of the easy-to-use finishes. One new type can be a combination vinyl-rubber paint that is said to do a better job on interiors than either vinyl or rubber alone given it dries faster, lasts longer and has less sheen.
Paint Selection
Most paints are purchased ready-mixed but, in their selection, consideration ought to be given to the fact that surfaces vary of their adaptability to paint and atmospheric and other conditions having an adverse relation to paint performance. As well as the normal weathering action of the weather, outside house paints are now and again exposed to other attacking elements, for example corrosive fumes from factories or excessive amounts of wind-driven dust.
For localities where such conditions exist, self-cleaning paints must be selected. These paints are often so designated for the label. Concrete, plaster, and metal surfaces each present special problems in painting. As an example, paint for use on masonry or new plaster have to be resistant to dampness and alkalies, and paints applied to steel must have rust-inhibitive properties.
Color - The paint makers are over to sell the lady of the property and color is come-on. They are tempting her using a kaleidoscope's variety; one firm provides more than 6,000 different shades.
Practically every manufacturer features a "color system," a fat book of color chips with instructions for duplicating each chip. This is successfully done by intermixing cans of colored paint, with the addition of a concentrated color to some can of white or colored paint, or by adding concentrated color or colors into a can of neutral "base" paint. As well as for those who don't want any guesswork you have the Color Carousel that mixes the paints within the store. Whatever the method, it's wise a range of colors like no amateur painter has seen.
Mixing
Paste paints, like aluminum, resin-emulsion, and lead-in-oil, should be stirred with a stiff paddle and reduced to painting consistency together with the liquids recommended around the manufacturer's labels.
Paints in powdered form require the addition of a liquid to prepare them for use. The manufacturer's directions regarding amount of oil, varnish, water, or another vehicle required should be followed.
"Boxing" is a good approach to mixing paints. Since paint is often a mixture of solids and liquids, it is crucial that it be mixed thoroughly before using. To do this, the greater portion of the liquid items in the can needs to be poured in a clean bucket somewhat bigger the paint can. Then, with a stiff paddle, the settled pigment from the original container needs to be loosened and any lumps separated. After this, mix the material in the container thoroughly, employing a figure 8 motion, and follow using a lifting and beating motion. Continue stirring the mix vigorously while slowly adding the liquid which was previously poured from the top. Complete the blending by pouring the paint from one container to the other several times until the entire amount is of uniform consistency.
Paste and powder paints ought to be mixed in quantities sufficient for fast use only, as these materials often become unfit for application if able to stand for three or more hours.
If paints are already allowed to stand and hard lumps or skin have formed, your skin layer or scum should be removed, after which it the paint might be stirred and strained through screen wire or through a couple of thicknesses of cheesecloth.
In case a desired shade is just not obtainable in custom-or ready-mixed paints, white paints could be tinted with colors-in-oil. To do this, mix the color-in-oil having a small amount of turpentine or mineral spirits and stir this in to the white paint, somewhat at a time. If a blended color is desired, more than one color may be added, such as a chrome green and chrome yellow pigments to generate a lettuce green shade.